St. Lucia – Perle der Karibik

St. Lucia, das ist die Insel mit zwei Bergen…:D Naja, eigentlich hat sie ziemlich viele Berge, aber die beiden sogenannten Pitons sind die Wahrzeichen. Es war mein erstes Mal in der Karibik und einfach ein Traum. St. Lucia ist unglaublich abwechslungsreich und an vielen Orten noch sehr ursprünglich. Die besten Tipps möchte ich euch natürlich nicht vorenthalten!

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Sechs Nächte haben wir im Paradies verbracht: Drei im Westen in Marigot Bay und drei im Norden direkt am Reduit Beach. Die Entfernungen sind zwar nicht besonders groß, aber man sollte die schlechte Beschaffenheit der Straßen (je weiter nördlich, desto besser, da in diese Richtung auch der Tourismus zunimmt) auf keinen Fall unterschätzen. Es gibt keine Geschwindigkeitsbegrenzungen, denn auf den Straßen kann man gar nicht besonders schnell fahren. In Serpentinen schlängeln sie sich über die Insel an den Bergen vorbei, sind voller Schlaglöcher und teilweise sehr schmal, sodass man am Gegenverkehr langsam vorbeifahren muss.

Als wir in unserer ersten Unterkunft, im Marigot Palms Luxury Caribbean Guesthouse and Apartments ankamen, hat es uns beinahe die Sprache verschlagen: Das wunderschöne Haus liegt am Hang mit einem traumhaften Blick über die Marigot Bay. Als Begrüßung stand für uns eine Flasche Sekt bereit und sowohl die Terrasse mit Pool als auch unser privater Balkon hatte diese Wahnsinns-Kulisse. Morgens beim Aufwachen konnte man vom Bett aus direkt auf das türkisfarbene Wasser mit den kleinen Schiffen und die unzähligen Palmen blicken. Die Gastgeber Ann und Danny – beides Belgier, waren sehr herzlich und haben uns jeden Morgen ein tolles Frühstück bereitet. Daher kann ich diese Unterkunft wärmstens empfehlen!

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Terrasse mit Pool im Marigot Palms

Von Marigot Bay aus haben wir viel unternommen. So ging es ins Julietta’s auf einen Drink, danach ins Chateau Mygo zum Essen. Vom Julietta’s hat man einen tollen Blick auf die Bucht und die dschungelartigen Hänge, im Chateau Mygo sitzt man bei leckerem Essen direkt am Wasser. Wir wollten eigentlich auch unbedingt ins Rainforest Hideaway (Reservierung empfohlen), da es unglaublich gute Bewertungen hat, außerdem wird man mit dem Wassertaxi hingefahren :), aber leider hatte es geschlossen, als wir Zeit gehabt hätten.

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Ein Ausflug ins Roseau Valley lohnt sich von Marigot Bay definitiv – in ein paar Minuten ist man dort und sieht beeindruckend riesige Bananenplantagen. Die Stauden sind in blauen Säcke zum Schutz vor Vögeln und Insekten verpackt. Bananen sind DAS Exportprodukt der Insel, es folgen Rum und Kokosnüsse.

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Im Roseau Valley gibt es außerdem eine Rum Distillery, die man besichtigen kann und in der auch Tastings stattfinden. Die Führung war wirklich gut und spannend gemacht. Man lernte zusätzlich auch noch etwas über den Karneval in St. Lucia :)

Es gibt zwar in St. Lucia keine Privatstrände, jedoch sind viele Strände nur über die Ressorts zugänglich. Für die Nutzung der Straße zahlt man dann ca. 10 US-Dollar, die man aber auch auf Getränke und Speisen im Ressort-Restaurant anrechnen lassen kann. Schön war der Strand von Anse Cochon, betrieben vom Ti Kaye Resort & Spa. Die Straße dorthin war allerdings ein ziemlicher Albtraum und wir waren uns vorher etwas unsicher, ob unser Auto die Steigung schaffen würde…

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Diese kleinen „Planschbecken“ mitten im Meer sollte es überall geben (ich habe sie am Anse Cochon Beach und am Sugar Beach gesehen)

Weiter ging es zu den Diamond Falls Botanical Gardens, einer wirklich schönen Gartenanlage mit Wasserfall, in der man auch viele lokale Pflanzen und Bäume bewundern und einfach einmal ein bisschen Dschungelluft schnappen kann. Schatten gibts gratis dazu ;-)

Diamond Falls

Auch die Stadt Soufrière haben wir uns angesehen: Gefühlt waren dort relativ wenige Touristen, sodass wir sehr auffielen. Aber nach einer Weile hatten wir uns an das ständige Fragen der Einheimischen („Are you lost? Can I help you?) gewöhnt.

Am besten gefallen hat uns die malerische Kirche mit den Bergen im Hintergrund:

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Großartig war auch das Zaka Art Café, in dem es herrlich nach Kaffee roch. Wie der Name schon vermuten lässt, konnte man dort auch Bilder und kunstvolle Handarbeiten ansehen und erwerben. Auch von außen ist das bunte Häuschen sehr hübsch anzusehen!

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Bei einer Fahrt durch das Fischerdorf Anse la Raye stießen wir eher zufällig auf eine kleine local bakery, in der ein Mann in einem kleinen Raum mit Steinofen genau eine Sache anbot: Wunderbar leckeres, noch warmes Banana Bread für einen Caribbean Dollar (ca. 33 Cent). Definitiv nicht touristisch und sehr zu empfehlen. Sobald ihr in Anse la Raye auf der Haupstraße seid, seht ihr relativ am Anfang in rot auf Wellblech geschrieben „local bakery“ und einen Pfeil nach rechts. Falls ihr das Schild nicht seht, bin ich mir aber ziemlich sicher, dass jeder Einheimische weiß, wo die „Bäckerei“ zu finden ist, denn alle sind ganz verrückt nach dem Banana Bread.

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Abends führte es uns in eines der besten und exklusivsten Hotels der Welt: Das Jade Mountain, das uns wirklich zutiefst beeindruckt hat. Zu jedem „Sanctuary“ führte eine Brücke – was für eine außergewöhnliche und einzigartige Architektur dieses am Hang gebauten Ressorts! Die Kulisse war atemberaubend und der Service ausgesprochen freundlich und zuvorkommend. Auf der Dachterrasse durften wir dann einen Cocktail trinken und uns den Sonnenuntergang ansehen. Am liebsten wäre ich an diesem schönen Ort ewig geblieben.

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Abends stand für uns ein Besuch im Restaurant Boucan -Hotel Chocolat auf dem Plan. Wir haben einen ganz besonderen Bezug zu der Marke Hotel Chocolat: Die Pralinen, die wir im London Eye bei unserer Verlobung gegessen haben, waren die Pink Champagne Truffles von Hotel Chocolat. Diese gab es auch als Gastgeschenke zu unserer Hochzeit. Ja, und ratet mal, wo sich die Kakaoplantage von Hotel Chocolat befindet? Richtig, auf St. Lucia…Das alles war tatsächlich ein absoluter Zufall und ist uns erst nach unserer Buchung aufgefallen. Alles, was es im Restaurant zu bestellen gibt, hat etwas mit Schokolade zu tun. Denn diese ist ja von Natur aus gar nicht süß, sondern eher bitter. Daher passte das wirklich gut und jeder Gang war etwas ganz Besonderes.

Am nächsten Tag wollten wir unbedingt einmal die typischen Magnoc-Fladen in verschiedenen Geschmacksrichtungen probieren. Irgendwo auf der Haupstraße, ein Stück weit weg von Canaries Richtung Anse Cochon steht ein Haus mit zwei Schornsteinen von zwei Kaminen. Dort kann man die Fladen kaufen und schafft definitiv nicht mehr als einen (selbst ich nicht)! Lecker, sehr sättigend und günstig!

Sehr zu empfehlen ist auch der Tet Paul Nature Trail, bei dem man unglaublich viel lernt und einen tollen Ausblick auf die Insel und die Pitons hat. Die Guides wissen alles über die Flora & Fauna und haben Spaß daran, Touristen zu fotografieren :)

St Lucia Kollage

Ein absoluter Klassiker unter den Aktivitäten auf St. Lucia ist auch ein Besuch des Drive in Volcanos, bei dem man noch die heißen Quellen sehen kann, und ein Matschbad in den Sulphur Springs. Der Schlamm soll gut für die Haut sein und es macht richtig Spaß, sich einzusauen :) Ein Tipp von mir: Zieht euch DUNKLE Badesachen an (ich habs nämlich nicht gemacht, weil ich einfach nicht darüber nachgedacht habe). Ideal ist es, direkt danach in das Mineral Bath zu fahren, das an der Straße Richtung Sugar Beach liegt – hier kann man sich die letzten Schlammreste abwaschen :)

Sulphur Springs

Der Sugar Beach selbst ist wunderschön – wie gemalt liegt er genau zwischen den beiden Pitons mit Palmen, einem netten Restaurant und den kleinen Planschbecken im Meer ;-) Die Miete für die Liegen ist unverschämt hoch, aber der Sand ist schön weich…:) Der Weg zum Strand runter ist recht lang, daher sollte man sich von einem Ressort-Golfwagen fahren lassen. Ab dem späten Nachmittag hatten wir den Strand fast ganz für uns, denn da mussten die ganzen Kreuzfahrturlauber zurück auf ihre Schiffe. Hach, ein Traum…

Sugar Beach

***

Den zweiten Teil des Urlaubs verbrachten wir im etwas touristischeren Norden und hatten das Gefühl, auf einer ganz anderen Insel gelandet zu sein. Ausgebaute, teils mehrspurige Straßen, Ampeln, Einkaufszentren – damit hatten wir gar nicht gerechnet!

Unser Hotel befand sich sehr nah am Reduit Beach in Rodney Bay und glücklicherweise lagen keine Kreuzfahrtschiffe in der Bucht von Castries: Ansonsten wäre es am Strand wohl recht voll gewesen. So hatten wir aber vieeeel Platz für uns, sind mit Jet Skis durch die Bucht geheizt und haben uns jeden Abend den Sonnenuntergang angesehen. Traumhaft schön!

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Jeden Freitagabend findet in Gros Islet die große Caribbean Street Party statt. An der Straße entlang werden Stände mit lokalem Essen aufgebaut und am Ende der Straße legt ein DJ seine Platten auf. Je später es wurde, desto mehr wurde auf offener Straße getanzt und Rum Punch (der Klassiker in St. Lucia, neben dem leckeren Piton Bier) getrunken. Die Stimmung war ausgelassen und auch die Musik hat mir sehr gefallen – eine Mischung aus Charts, Dance Hits, Hip Hop und Reggae. Und endlich einmal haben sich Einheimische und Touristen gemischt, sich teilweise auch miteinander unterhalten und zusammen getanzt. Ein tolles Erlebnis!

Am nächsten Morgen ging es für uns auf den Markt in Castries – Samstags morgens ist dort natürlich immer unheimlich viel los. Der Großteil der Besucher bestand aus Einheimischen – wir stürzten uns einfach mitten ins Getümmel. Autos mit einer Ladefläche voller Kokosnüsse oder Bananen, Kräuter, Fleisch und Fisch, Gewürze – es gab einfach alles. Kauft euch unbedingt eine Kokosnuss und trinkt das Wasser daraus! Auch ansonsten hat Castries einiges zu bieten, zum Beispiel den Derek Walcott Square, an dem auch eine wunderschöne Kirche („Kathedrale der unbefleckten Empfängnis) steht sowie einige schöne bunte Häuser aus der Kolonialzeit. Außerdem der so ziemlich beeindruckendste Baum, den ich je gesehen habe…

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Auf der Ostseite der Insel ist das Meer sehr viel rauer als auf der fast windstillen Westseite. Daher sind dort auch viele Kite Surfer aktiv. Zum Schwimmen ist es zu gefährlich, aber der Strand von Cas en Bas ist absolut sehenswert und es macht Spaß, die Wassersportler bei ihren Manövern zu beobachten.

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In Rodney Bay kann ich euch Elena’s Icecream (davon gibt es mehrere Filialen), The Spice of India, das Café Olé zum Mittagessen und das Delirius für einen Drink empfehlen.

Auf den Ausflug in den Nationapark Pigeon Island hatte ich mich schon besonders gefreut, zu Recht: Eine bezaubernde Kulisse, ein geschichtsträchtiger Ort und, wenn man ein wenig klettert, hat man einen tollen Blick über den Norden der Insel und sogar bis nach Martinique. Unbedingt Fort Rodney und den Signal Peak erklimmen, aber zieht feste Schuhe an!

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Innerhalb des Nationalparks gibt es zwei kleine schöne Strände sowie das Restaurant Jambe de Bois, das sehr idyllisch liegt und hervorragendes, günstiges Essen serviert. Man sollte dafür ein wenig Geduld mitbringen, aber es gibt Schlimmeres, als mit Blick aufs Meer in der Sonne (oder, je nach Hauttyp, im Schatten) auf sein Essen zu warten…

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An unserem letzten Abend im Paradies aßen wir im The Cliff at Cap Restaurant – einer sehr edlen, geschmackvollen Location, an der es leider recht viele Mücken gibt. Aber das Restaurant hatte vorgesorgt – auf jedem Tisch stand Mückenspray, was auch wirklich geholfen hat :) Das Essen war deliziös!

Falls ihr bei eurer Abreise zu früh in der Gegend des Flughafens seid, geht doch noch zum Sandy Beach in Vieux Fort, der ganz in der Nähe ist. Ich habe mich dort schweren Herzens vom Strand und Meer verabschiedet…

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Tja, auch nach St. Lucia muss ich wohl nochmal fliegen…das ist das Problem mit den ganzen schönen Orten auf dieser Welt: Meine Liste mit den noch zu bereisenden Zielen wird nicht kürzer, weil ich überall noch einmal hin möchte….

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