Wien, du bist so schön!

Soooo, ihr Lieben: Endlich der lang versprochene Wien-Bericht…Ich habe auch noch von vielen anderen Reisen so einiges nachzuholen, was die Berichte betrifft, aber eins nach dem anderen…

Ich blicke von der "Gloriette" aufs Schloss

Ich blicke von der „Gloriette“ aufs Schloss Schönbrunn

Heute daher erst einmal der Blogeintrag über diese wunderschöne österreichische Stadt, die wir uns bei Eiseskälte, aber zum Großteil strahlendem Sonnenschein angesehen haben. Zum ersten Mal! Normalerweise übernimmt Michael den Großteil der Reiseplanung, da er dafür einfach Talent hat und es ihm Spaß macht. Dieses Wochenende habe aber ich geplant. Denn mein Mann hatte an dem Samstag Geburtstag und er sollte sich überraschen lassen, quasi ein Wien-Geburtstags-Überraschungs-Wochenende. Alles, was er wusste, war, wohin es gehen sollte. Flug und Hotel hatte er bereits gebucht.

Jetzt bin ich auch in diesem Reiseplanungs-Fieber. Denn es macht tatsächlich unglaublich viel Spaß, sich zu überlegen, was man alles unternimmt, wo man essen geht und wo man die besten Drinks bekommt. Aber für jemanden wie mich, der alles perfekt machen möchte und der manchmal Schwierigkeiten hat, sich zu entscheiden, ist es auch verdammt schwierig. Ich war kurz davor, Michael beizubringen, dass wir leider nicht viel Schlaf bekommen werden (dabei ist mir mein Schlaf heilig!), weil wir abends in drei verschiedene Cocktailbars gehen müssen und morgens früh aufstehen, damit wir auch alles schaffen.

Aber dann habe ich mir den Stress genommen, denn es würde der Stadt nicht gerecht, mit dem Anspruch hinzufahren, alles Tolle an einem Wochenende zu sehen. Und es wäre schlichtweg auch gar nicht realisierbar. Dafür gibt es zu viele schöne Dinge, wunderbare Restaurants, Bars, Museen, beeindruckende Gebäude und gemütliche Cafés – sorry, Kaffeehäuser.

Daher müssen wir einfach noch einmal wiederkommen, und es ist ja auch so viel schöner, eine Stadt mit einer gewissen Gemütlichkeit kennenzulernen. Zwischendurch, wenn einem danach ist, einfach mal durch ein Kaufhaus schlendern oder sich in ein Café setzen. Ein paar Umwege gehen und süße kleine Gassen entdecken.

Natürlich hatten wir auch einige Programmpunkte, aber dennoch war Zeit für Gemütlichkeit. Jetzt einmal nach der Reihe:

Am Freitag abend sind wir angekommen, haben die S-Bahn + U-Bahn vom Flughafen in die Innenstadt genommen und sind im Hotel eingecheckt. Das erste Mal begeistert war ich schon, als wir aus der U-Bahn ausgestiegen sind und die prunkvollen, schön angestrahlten Bauten gesehen haben: Das Volkstheater, das kunsthistorische Museum, das Naturkundemuseum und das Parlament.

Das zweite Mal bin ich in Begeisterungsstürme ausgebrochen, als ich das Hotel von innen gesehen habe. Wir kannten das 25hours schon aus Frankfurt (25 hours The Goldman), und lieben diese Kette einfach. Das in Wien ist auch ganz großartig und wärmstens zu empfehlen. Es handelt sich um ein Boutique-Hotel, das ein wenig frech-verrückt ist. Schon am Eingang befindet sich ein Leucht-Schriftzug „We are all mad here“, und ja, das passt. Im Eingangsbereich steht „Hello, Stranger“, im Ausgangsbereich „Goodbye, Friend“. Die Rezeption heißt „Kiosk“ – daneben befindet sich ein kleiner Shop, in dem es wunderbare Dinge zu kaufen gibt (u.a. Wörterbücher Wienerisch-Deutsch, die Shampoos und Seifen des Hotels, Kissenbezüge mit „Let’s spend the night together“ oder „Almost home“, mit denen auch die Kissen auf den Zimmern bezogen sind und und und). An der Theke steht „Bitte nicht füttern“ und „25h open“. Überall solche Scherze. Wunderbar. Also: Wenn Wien, dann unbedingt in dieses Hotel, es ist ein Erlebnis: 25 hours Vienna Museumsquartier. Und zentral noch dazu.

25 hours Hotel

Abends ging es dann auch erst einmal in das Restaurant des Hotels, 1500 Foodmakers. Großartige Pizzen und italienische Küche in gemütlicher Atmosphäre. Offensichtlich waren auch viele Nicht-Hotel-Gäste dort und zumindest auch einige Österreicher (am Dialekt erkannt). Es lohnt sich, die Bilder auf der Homepage anzusehen!

Danach ging es für uns in die Bar „Dachboden“ – ebenfalls zum Hotel zugehörig. Und waren doch recht überrascht, dass wir eine Weile warten mussten, bis wir überhaupt reingelassen wurden. Der Dachboden war schon überfüllt! Aber wir hatten Glück und wurden noch rechtzeitig vor Mitternacht und somit dem Geburtstag meines Mannes hereingelassen. Und tatsächlich, drinnen war es sehr voll – kein Wunder, denn die Bar war außergewöhnlich gemütlich und modern zugleich, passte zu dem Hotel und war offensichtlich allseits beliebt. Auch hier lohnt sich ein Blick auf die Bilder im Web!

Um 12 stießen wir auf Michael an und ich sang ihm „Wie schön, dass du geboren bist“ ins Ohr. Als wir gemütlich unsere Drinks ausgetrunken hatten, ging es ins Hotelzimmer, wo – oh Überraschung – eine kleine Pinguintorte auf Michael wartete. Ok, ich gebe es zu – für mich nicht so überraschend, hatte ich das ganze doch initiiert. CupCakesWien hatte diese wunderschöne Torte auf meine Bestellung hin gefertigt und ins Hotel geliefert. Die nächste halbe Stunde verging damit, dass Michael Fotos von der Torte machte, daraufhin aßen wir ein kleines Stück und weitere Geschenke wurden ausgepackt.

Als wir am nächsten Morgen aus dem Fenster blickten, erwartete uns diese Aussicht:

Blick aus dem Hotelzimmer

 

Dann ging es zu einem Geburtstags-Frühstück in den Palais Coburg, in die Clementine im Glashaus. Sehr schick, leckeres Frühstück und ein wunderschöner Ort zum Frühstücken. Hängengeblieben ist auch ein Zitat von Prinzessin Clementine, das man vorne in der Speisekarte findet:

„Es ist verdammt hart, eine Prinzessin zu sein. Aber eine muss es ja machen. Und wenigstens ist das Essen gut.“

Nach dem Frühstück waren erst einmal ein paar Stunden Stadtspaziergang eingeplant. Um ein Gefühl für die Stadt zu bekommen, wenn man noch nie dort war, finde ich das einfach total wichtig. Und es war wirklich wunderbar, wir sind rund um die Hofburg spazieren gegangen, haben uns die Kostbarkeiten des Hofzuckerbäckers Demel angeschaut, haben am Kohlenmarkt und am Graben flaniert – und da sowohl Michael als auch ich Fans von Tiffany sind, mussten wir natürlich auch in Wien dort reinschauen. Die haben dort immer soooo schöne Schaufensterdeko!

Außerdem haben wir uns die Ankeruhr angesehen, den Stephansplatz, sind durch die Tuchlauben geschlendert, waren im Kaufhaus Steffl, Staatsoper und und und…Ein Besuch bei Julius Meinl am Graben, sei es im Supermarkt, im Restaurant oder im Café, lohnt sich auch immer! Dort gibt es exotische Früchte und Delikatessen & Getränke aus der ganzen Welt, aber auch Feines aus Österreich. Wir waren nur im Supermarkt und schon dort beeindruckt. Ich habe Michael kaum noch dort rausbekommen…

Achja, und da Michaels Geburtstag war, haben wir spontan ein Glas Champagner in der Loos Bar getrunken. Sehr klein, sehr urig und ein wenig verräuchert. Es gibt in Österreich zwar ein Rauchverbot, aber verschiedene Ausnahmeregelungen führen dazu, dass in manchen Bars und in manchen Räumen geraucht werden darf.

Für Wien natürlich ein MUSS, wenn auch absolut touristisch: Ein Stück Sachertorte essen, was wir ganz klassisch im Café Sacher gemacht haben. Gar nicht so mächtig, wie wir dachten, dazu einen „kleinen Braunen“ (Espresso).

Dann ging es noch auf den Naschmarkt. Dort gibt es alles Kulinarische, was das Herz begehrt: Fische & Meeresfrüchte, Obst & Gemüse, Wurst & Käse, frische Falafel, Oliven und Pasten, Brote, Wein und vieles mehr. Und überall wird man sehr offensiv dazu aufgefordert, alles Mögliche zu kosten. Daher ja auch der Name „Naschmarkt“. Natürlich wird dann auch erwartet, dass man etwas kauft und teilweise können die Verkäufer schon sehr hartnäckig sein. Wir haben daher nur dort probiert, wo wir voraussichtlich auch etwas kaufen würden. Aber über den Naschmarkt zu schlendern ist einfach ein Erlebnis. Auch für einen Aperetif wunderbar geeignet – nicht nur Touristen, sondern auch viele Wiener treffen sich dort.

Der Wiener Naschmarkt

Weiter ging es dann zum Schloss Belvedere, was eine für mich wunderbare Ausstellung zu bieten hatte: Im Lichte Monets:

„Die Herbstausstellung 2014 in der Orangerie des Unteren Belvedere zeigt Ikonen des Impressionismus in einer europaweit einzigartigen Zusammenschau – und zugleich deren vielfältige Einflussnahme auf die heimische Kunst. Dank hochkarätiger Leihgaben aus aller Welt versammelt die Ausstellung Schlüsselwerke Claude Monets, die zum Teil noch nie in Österreich zu sehen waren. 18 Jahre nach der legendären Monet-Ausstellung des Jahres 1996 stellt das Belvedere den Meister impressionistischer Lichtmalerei erneut in den Mittelpunkt einer spektakulären Sonderschau. Der Fokus der Ausstellung liegt auf Monet als Inspirationsquelle für zeitgenössische Künstler, die sich an seiner Motivik und seiner Pinselführung orientierten. Ausgewählte Werke des Wegbereiters der Moderne treten in der Ausstellung in Dialog mit einer Reihe österreichischer Künstler, die, nachdem sie auf direkte oder indirekte Weise Werke Monets kennengelernt hatten, in ihren eigenen Arbeiten darauf Bezug nahmen.“

Leider wurde die Ausstellung schon beendet, aber es war eine der besten Ausstellungen, die ich jemals gesehen habe. Ich muss mich aber auch als absoluter Monet-Fan outen, daher ist es wohl kein Wunder, dass ich begeistert war…

Aber auch das Schloss und die Stimmung dort waren einfach grandios. Schaut euch die Bilder selbst an:

Abends stand dann noch ein ganz besonderes Highlight auf dem Programm: Ein Geburtstagsessen im Restaurant Dstrikt im Ritz-Carlton. Nicht so etepetete, wie man jetzt vielleicht denken würde, sondern einfach und locker, aber gehobene Küche und einfach einmalig gutes Steak und die besten Pommes, die ich jemals gegessen habe. „Pommes“ kann man sie eigentlich kaum nennen – sie waren mit Trüffelöl und Parmesan zubereitet und ein Gaumenschmaus. Der Smalltalk mit dem Kellner war nett und witzig und die Atmosphäre wirklich angenehm. Danach ging es dann in die Hotelbar des Ritz-Carlton, die D-Bar. Auch dort durfte geraucht werden, was wir als Nichtraucher ja nicht unbedingt brauchen, aber die Cocktails waren top!

So ging der Geburtstag meines Mannes auch schnell zu Ende und der Sonntag stand vor der Tür…

Diesen Tag starteten wir mit einem guten Frühstück im Café Impérial. Dort ist das „Ei im Glas“ sehr zu empfehlen!

Weiter ging es dann ins Sisi Museum. Wir waren überrascht, wie viele falsche Informationen man doch von dem Leben der berühmten Kaiserin in den Filmen vermittelt bekommt und haben gespannt Elisabeths Lebenslauf verfolgt und uns angesehen, wie sie gelebt hat. Mit 15 schon war Sisi verlobt, mit 16 verheiratet und mit 17 bekam sie ihr erstes Kind Sophie, das im Alter von zwei Jahren starb. Ich wusste auch nicht, dass ihr drittes Kind Rudolf sich im Erwachsenenalter umgebracht hat. Irgendwie konnte ich mir gut vorstellen, dass es für ein junges Mädchen kaum zu verkraften war, sich vor so eine große Verantwortung gestellt zu sehen und so früh mit einem schweren Schicksalsschlag sowie einer eigenen Krankheit konfrontiert zu werden. Dass sie mit schweren Depressionen zu kämpfen hatte, gleichzeitig äußerst selbstbewusst aufgrund ihrer Schönheit war und sich dennoch versteckt hat, wundert mich nicht. Ein paar für uns etwas seltsam anmutende Fakten haben wir auch erfahren: So hat sich Sisi nachts oft für eine zarte Haut Rindfleisch ins Gesicht gelegt. Jeden Tag wurde sie zwei bis drei Stunden frisiert – währenddessen hat sie meist Fremdsprachen gelernt. Ihre Schönheit war Sisi außerordentlich wichtig, und ich war ziemlich geschockt, dass sie einen Taillenumfang von nur 51cm gehabt haben soll…Gesund war das definitiv nicht.

Und Franz-Joseph war wohl ein echter Workaholic, ist jeden Tag um halb 4 aufgestanden und hat ca. 16 Stunden täglich gearbeitet – er hatte bis zu 100 Audienzen an einem Vormittag. Wahnsinn! Mit so wenig Schlaf würde ich nicht auskommen ;-)

Ich liebe es, in frühere Welten einzutauchen, mir vorzustellen, wie sich die Menschen gefühlt haben müssen und wie sie gelebt haben.

Auch die Hofburg haben wir uns angesehen und waren beeindruckt von der riesigen, prunkvollen Anlage.

Nach einem Zwischenstopp im Café ging es weiter in die Albertina. Auch das kann ich, wenn man ein wenig kunstinteressiert ist, nur empfehlen. Da es dort ebenfalls einige Werke von Monet gibt, kam ich voll auf meine Kosten ;-)

Es folgt ein Punkt, den ich euch zumindest im Winter absolut nicht ans Herz legen würde: Der Prater. Die obligatorische Fahrt mit dem Riesenrad war zwar nett, aber ansonsten war dort tote Hose. Im Sommer wird es ganz anders sein, aber natürlich ist das auch Typsache: Fahrt ihr gerne Karussell, Achterbahn und Wildwasserbahn? Dann fahrt hin – ansonsten lohnt es sich wohl eher weniger.

Riesenrad

Das Wiener Riesenrad

Abends sind wir im Do&Co am Stephansplatz essen gegangen und waren begeistert. Dort stimmte einfach alles. Hervorragendes Essen – Steaks, Sushi, Döner (!) und Feines aus aller Welt, aber auch freundliches Personal und ein Wahnsinns-Blick auf den Stephansdom. Wenn ihr dort reserviert, fragt, ob ihr einen Tisch mit direktem Blick auf den Dom bekommen könnt. Es ist nicht ganz leise in dem Restaurant, da sich das Restaurant auf einer Art Galerie befindet und darunter direkt die Bar ist. Uns hat es nicht gestört und man konnte sich dennoch ohne Probleme unterhalten, aber man sollte es vorher wissen.

Danach waren wir auch noch in der dazugehörigen Onyx Bar, weil wir vom Ambiente und dem Blick noch nicht genug hatten. Auch die Cocktails waren super und wir haben uns mit der DJane angefreundet und verquatscht, sodass wir viel später zurück im Hotel waren als geplant…

Womit ich dann auch schon beim Montag und somit dem letzten Tag unseres Trips wäre. Das Frühstück in der Meierei im Stadtpark war grandios – man sollte dort sehr frühzeitig reservieren. Ich habe Lavendelmilch getrunken, Michael Kardamommilch. Ich weiß jetzt schon, dass ich bei meinem nächsten Wien-Besuch wieder dort frühstücken muss!

Gut gestärkt sind wir dann ins Schloss Schönbrunn gefahren und haben die „Grand Tour“ gemacht, die in unserem „Sisi Ticket“ inklusive war. Die Tickets hatte ich übrigens alle im Voraus gebucht und bezahlt, was im Winter nicht unbedingt nötig ist, an hoch frequentieren Wochenenden aber Wartezeiten ersparen kann. Sogar unsere 72h-Wien-Ticket für die sogenannten Öffis konnte ich vorher ordern und ausdrucken. Dann muss man sich vor Ort nicht mehr damit aufhalten!

Ich möchte Schloss Schönbrunn auch unbedingt einmal im Sommer sehen, durch den Schlossgarten wandeln, mich im Irrgarten verlaufen und den Tiergarten besuchen. Aber auch im Winter hat die Anlage ihren Charme. Muss man gesehen haben, wenn man Wien besucht!

Zurück vom Schloss haben wir noch das gemacht, was bis jetzt bei einem typischen Wien-Besuch gefehlt hat: Schnitzel gegessen. Und zwar bei Figlmüller, was wir auch sehr empfehlen können. Sehr urig und typisch wienerisch. Die Schnitzel waren auch sehr gut und die Kellner wirklich nett.

Das war es! Wien, tschüss, bis zum nächsten Mal – wir kommen sicher wieder!

Hier für euch noch die restlichen Bilder ;-)

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